30
September
2006
This is another one of those tools that pays for themselves in a relatively short amount of time, even with one job. A trenching shovel can be a very handy tool when installing your sprinkler system, even if you are using a trencher or pipe puller to put most of the line in.
A 4″ trenching shovel is a pretty good size, and works great for digging trenches for your sprinkler line, but for me it works even better to clean out the trenches. Once you get them initially dug, there always going to be bunch of loose dirt and clumps in the bottom of your trench, and a regular shovel is too wide. Also using your hands to clean it out works real well, but then you are bent over the whole time. The trenching shovel fits right in the trench really nicely and makes it fast and easy to clean out the trench before you lay your line in it.
You can usually get these at about any sprinkler supply store or a sprinkler supply store online. Sometimes you might find a trenching shovel at the general hardware store, but not too often, and that may be why most people have never heard of or seen a shovel shaped like this.
The trenching shovel is not something that you would use very often aside from trenching, of course, but it will be well worth your money and time to have one.
Posted: Handy Tools
27
September
2006
Controllers are an integral part of an automatic sprinkler system, and I wanted to make a post about controllers in general.
Many people call it a timer, and it is used to control when your sprinklers come on and turn off, and how long to run them. Without going into great detail about how automatic sprinkler systems are designed, your system will usually be divided up into different zones. Each zone controls a variable number of sprinkler heads, and each zone has a valve. The controller, or timer controls these valves. By default they are off, but when a small electric current is sent from the controller, it opens the valve and lets water through and out to the heads. Contrary to may beliefs, the pressure of the water is what makes the heads go up, the automatic timer only controls the valves that let the water through.
There are many different brands and styles of controllers / timers, and many accessories for them, from sensors for rain and wind to remote controls. But most automatic sprinkler timers have the same basic functions. The typical controller will have run times, start times and programs.
Run times are simply setting how long each zone will run. Depending on the type of heads and ground that is being covered the run times may vary per zone.
Start times are simply when you would like the zones to start running. You can usually set the start time to happen 3-4 times a day, and it will go through all the run times for each zone once for each start time.
Programs add another dimension to your start times. You can make a program that runs all your zones twice a day. You can then make a seperate program that runs only one zone once a day. An application for this would be if you want to water your lawn twice a day but only run your drip system once a day.
Controllers go on with many more features, such as percentages, response to sensors and many combinations of watering programs and start times, but this is basically how it works. Most controllers will also have a back up battery in case the power goes out. This usually won’t run the sprinklers when there is no power to the timer, but it will keep your settings so you don’t have to enter them again, and that is a good thing.
Pictured here are Virtualrain controllers, but there are many different brands each with their own pros and cons. Finding the right one for you involves first making sure that it covers the number of zones you have, and then it’s just desired features from there.
Posted: Controllers
24
September
2006
A Rain Sensor is a device that hooks into your automatic timer/controller to regulate your watering when it’s raining out.
If you have automatic sprinklers on a timer, they are set to run on a schedule no matter what the weather, and if the weather or season changes, it is usually up to you to adjust the timer accordingly. Living in the northwest, often times I will be driving to work in the morning during the early or late summer when it is raining, and see the sprinklers going for homes and businesses. While it is raining watering your lawn the same amount, and often at all is a waste of money and resources.
A rain sensor can help you avoiding wasting water and money when it is not necessary. Most controllers for your automatic sprinklers will have a connection available for a rain sensor, and although different rain sensors use different methods for sensing rain, the hook up is generally the same. The idea is that it will just flip a switch electronically to tell your timer to stop watering, and the switch will flip back to tell the timer to water again when it dries out. This means that you can usually hook up any rain sensor to any controller.
You need to mount your rain sensor outside where it is going to be exposed to the same rain your lawn is. Some common places to mount a rain sensor is on the eave or rain gutter of your house, or on a wall or fence where it is exposed to rain from directly above.
Rain sensors are a small extra cost when installing your system, but they will pay for themselves quickly in the water that they save, and it is a good idea to conserve water resources in your community.
Rain-Click [Hunter Industries]
Posted: Controller Accessories, Sensors
23
September
2006
One thing that a lot of people do not think about in advance is protecting the wires for your automatic sprinkler system valves. When installing and running a sprinkler system, you are obviously dealing with a lot of water. Also, by putting valve boxes underground with wires to the valves, there is a good chance that at some point during the year that valve box could get very wet or even be flooded. If you do not protect the wires that are running your automatic valves, you will get a short and blow a fuse, and then your sprinklers will not run because the timer has stopped.
When installing your valves and attaching wiring to your controller, you will want to use some form of grease cap. A grease cap allows you to take the bare wire connection that you have made, and “bury” it inside the grease cap, and then secure it. This makes a waterproof seal around any bare wires so they are not exposed, and still allows you to take the wires out again without having to cut them if you needed to. After having grease on the wires it will be messy, but you can do it.
Whenever making wire connections in an area that may be exposed to water, always remember to use a grease cap for the connection to avoid a short.
Posted: Handy Tools, Tips and Tricks
20
September
2006
A backflow preventor valve assembly is a pretty common part of any sprinkler job. If you are watering your lawn with the same water that you drink or use for other purposes you want one of these, and in most cases the law requires it. This valve is to ensure that any chemicals that are on your lawn do not flow back into the common water system from your sprinkler system, so really it’s an elaborate one way valve.
This valve in usually installed as the first part of your sprinkler system and is where all the water that feeds the system will come from. The pictured backflow preventor is called a Pressure Vacuum breaker. It is commonly used so that your valve is visible and accessable above ground. With this type of backflow preventor, you always want to make sure it is installed at least 6″ above the highest sprinkler head in your system so no gravity feed can passively go back into the system.
There are a number of different backflow preventor styles, some of which include the Reduced Pressure, Atmospheric and the Double Check. All of these will usually require yearly inspection by your city or local government.
Posted: Valves
15
September
2006
Line drains are relatively inexpensive parts, but they can save you a ton of time an money if you live in a cold weather area, and pay for themselves many times over. If you live in an area where the ground freezes down to the depth your buried your sprinkler line or more, you want to pay attention to this post.
Line drains are threaded “plugs” that have a pressure sensitive valve in them. I always try to “T” them into your sprinkler line at the low points of each section. When the line has pressure on it, the valvel closes and no water comes out. When the pressure releases then the valve opens and water can drain out of these low points.
Even though you probably blow out your sprinkler system in the winter, this helps in case any water remains in your system. If you happen to get an unexpected cold spell or have exposed areas during even a short cold spell where the water in your sprinkler liine coulud freeze solid it could cause a lot of damage, maybe not in materials but you need to find the break, dig it up, fix it and bury it again. The line drains allow the system to drain itself after each cycle so the pipe is not filled with water that can freeze solid and break.
Tip:
When installing them have some sand handy to bury the line drain with. It keeps a chuck of dirt or clay from blocking the valve and stopping the draining.
The downsides are pretty minimal to using this, but there are a few couple minor ones:
- You need to buy the drains (a little extra cost but not much) and go through the extra work of installing them, but again if you are in a cold weather area it is well worth it in the long run.
- It drains all of the water out of your line each time into the drain points. This still stays in your lawn, but might pool and waste a little water where you don’t want/need it.
- I like my system to be quiet, especially when it turns on in the middle of the night or anytime my neighbors are sleeping. When all the water drains out each time the heads tend to make more noise when the water pressure pushes out all of the air. This isn’t a big deal, but it is a little noisier than normal for a little longer time.
Overall, if you live in a cold area the line drains are always a good idea.
Line Drains [King Innovation]
Posted: Tips and Tricks, Winterization
13
September
2006
The Hunter PGP is by far my most favorite adjustable rotary sprinkler head for residential sprinkler systems. This gear driven sprinkler runs very quietly and smoothly. It comes with either 12 standard or 7 low angle nozzles to get different spray patterns, and is very easy to adjust the radius, from about 5 degrees to a full 360 degrees.
Each head comes with a small key that makes it very easy to adjust the degree of rotation and to adjust the distance to some degree, depending on the nozel you are using.
When setting head and making adjustments, you can just rotate it by hand forward to the next stop and then back to the previous stop to make quicker adjustments. Many heads do not have this feature, and although you do not need to adjust them very often, it sure is more convenient then waiting for it to rotate back and forth on it’s own and getting things wet that you don’t want to (like your kids or something) in the process.
It has a very nice seal with a rubber top so dirt always gets pushed out when the head comes down. The oldest system I have installed is almost 8 years ago and I used the Hunter PGP’s. To my knowledge none have ever gotten clogged or quite working in any of the home systems I have done.
I have been very pleased with this rotor and would recommend it to anyone.
Buy Hunter PGP [Sprinkler.com]
More Information [Hunter]
Posted: Sprinkler Heads
11
September
2006
Tunneling under sidewalks and similar obstructions can be an big obstacle, even for experienced irrigation installers. The first time I was faced with this task, I did not have the the Sidewalk Sleever, but I wish I did. There are alternative ways to get this job done, but I would suggest that if you have to tunnel under something more than once to consider getting one of these tools, because if you’re anything like me after the first time you are going to wish you had it!
The Sidewalk Sleever is used for 1 or 2 inch PVC pipe, and tools go from 60″ to 96″ long for the 1″ diameter pipe, and 60″ only for the 2″ diameter pipe.
To use, you measure your PVC pipe as directed with the tool so that it fits between the “boring” end and the “stop” end. You will need to dig a hole on either side of the sidewalk or obstruction so that you can tunnel the Sidewalk Sleever through level. You then insert the tool through your PVC pipe and line it up to go under your obstruction. You can then use a sledge hammer to pound your PVC pipe right under the sidewalk, and once you are through just remove the tool from inside the pipe and you are set.
You’ll want to be carefull to have the tool level when you start to avoid it going to deep on the other end, or aiming up too high and taking a chance at cracking your sidewalk from beneath.
The makers of the Sidewalk Sleever boast that most tunneling jobs can be done in 60 seconds. The method I have used involved a lot of water, and lot of time and a lot of work, so I have to say that this tool looks like it’s worth it!
Sidewalk Sleever Site [SidewalkSleever.com]
Posted: Handy Tools, Tunneling, Tips and Tricks
11
September
2006
The Fertile Earth SmartFeeder is an excellent accessory to your automatic sprinkler system. It is a device that can be placed inline with your pressurized sprinkler system and will inject the right amount of fertilizer throught the water.
It’s recommended that this be placed in a system after a check valve approved by the building codes in your area to prevent any contamination into the main water system.
You can place the SmartFeeder automatic fertilizer in an underground in a valve box before your valve manifold so that it will feed all the zones. The liquid fertilizer is in a bottle that goes in the valve box as well, so whenever you need to refill the fertilizer bottle, you can just unhook the bottle and small hose that feeds the fertilizer, refill it and replace it in the valve box.
The fertilizer that is recommended for the SmartFeeder is called Liquid Life and is also made by Fertile Earth, and is safe for use around kids and pets. This is an important feature of the system, as when using this method of fertilization you don’t always have control over kids or pets being in the yard when the sprinklers are running or have recently ran a cycle.
Fertile Earth also makes a liquid pest control formula that works with the SmartFeeder system as well, which allows you to use the same device to help control insects in your yard.
There are a number of inline fertilization systems on the market for your home irrigation, but this is one of the more simple and easy to install versions I have seen.
SmartFeeder [Fertile Earth]
Posted: Fertilization
10
September
2006
PVC (poly vinyl chloride) pipe is commonly used for residential irrigation systems in the more southern states of the US where the climate is generally warmer. In the northern states where the ground freezes solid and moves, this pipe would crack and break. In the northern colder states, a flexible poly pipe would be more appropriate.
Commonly a schedule 40 PVC pipe is used, is white in color and usually comes in 20 or 40 foot lengths. Usually I would use the 1″ diameter pipe, but occasionally the 3/4″ PVC pipe might be more appropriate for your spinkler system, depending on the flow and pressure you have or need.
When using any threaded pieces to connect the PVC pipe, always be sure to use teflon tape, and when connecting any fittings such as elbows and couplers be sure to use the appropriate glue and primer to avoid leaks.
Posted: Pipe
